Whole house power saver box install. I need your help! | Jabar Post Indonesia

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Whole house power saver box install. I need your help! | Jabar Post Indonesia

Electricity is the set of physical phenomena associated with the presence and motion of matter that has a property of electric charge. In early days, electricity was considered as being unrelated to magnetism. Later on, many experimental results and the development of Maxwell’s equations indicated that both electricity and magnetism are from a single phenomenon: electromagnetism. Various common phenomena are related to electricity, including lightning, static electricity, electric heating, electric discharges and many others.

The presence of an electric charge, which can be either positive or negative, produces an electric field. The movement of electric charges is an electric current and produces a magnetic field.

When a charge is placed in a location with a non-zero electric field, a force will act on it. The magnitude of this force is given by Coulomb’s law. Thus, if that charge were to move, the electric field would be doing work on the electric charge. Thus we can speak of electric potential at a certain point in space, which is equal to the work done by an external agent in carrying a unit of positive charge from an arbitrarily chosen reference point to that point without any acceleration and is typically measured in volts.

Electricity is at the heart of many modern technologies, being used for:

electric power where electric current is used to energise equipment;
electronics which deals with electrical circuits that involve active electrical components such as vacuum tubes, transistors, diodes and integrated circuits, and associated passive interconnection technologies.
Electrical phenomena have been studied since antiquity, though progress in theoretical understanding remained slow until the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. Even then, practical applications for electricity were few, and it would not be until the late nineteenth century that electrical engineers were able to put it to industrial and residential use. The rapid expansion in electrical technology at this time transformed industry and society, becoming a driving force for the Second Industrial Revolution. Electricity’s extraordinary versatility means it can be put to an almost limitless set of applications which include transport, heating, lighting, communications, and computation. Electrical power is now the backbone of modern industrial society.[1]

Whole house power saver box install. I need your help!
This video is me installing the power saver box that was sent to me for review.
This is supposed to make appliances in the house that have an inductive load way more efficient.
This DIY power saver video shows the install process but I need some ideas on how to test this.
Please comment and let me know your thoughts.
All the best,

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  1. Yes I too would love to see the inside of the unit, Video and Close up stills showing the word and numbers on the componets.
    To see if it is reducing power consumption, I would Learn to reed your meter, hopefully it a digital meter. Run for 2 to 3 days with and without. keeping detailed reading of the meter. then Determin when your meter cycle starts and turn the unit on that day for a one mounth test. compare that month with last years reading.

  2. If I understand correctly, they work on Inductive loads, So Turn on every moter in the house, Open the refrigerator door, start the dryer, turn on every fan, and make the AC unit stay on. then go out and time how fast the disk spins on the meter. Time one revolution then time ten. Less time means more power used. then flip the breaker for the unit and repeat the timing again. It should slow down.

  3. Hey Pete I wouldnt expect a super great change but its kewl you are giving it a try. Listen what I would suggest is taking the last 2-3 months kw usage and average and then take the next 2-3 months with the device kw usage average and compare. Just a suggestion buddy. Good luck.

  4. I'm no expert but from what I understand, have one connected to my 52 gallon electric water heater, the device does not actually save money. What it does is when the electric company is at peak usage the device temporarily shuts down the power to my water heater so to ease the strain on the power company. By doing so keeps the cost per kilowatt at a low rate. This saves money for everyone connected to the grid not just one house. The best way to save power is to unplug things when not in use.

  5. .. Hooking one of these power saver to your entire house would only cause havoc if it were to shut down during peak usage. I don't think the power savers were meant to be hooked up to an entire house.

  6. turn off all the fuse's with only the power coming in, have the power saver off also, use your clap meter around 1 side of the 200 amps it should read 0, then turn on only power saver and see how many amps the power saver runs at. I will bet it takes in 1.8 to 1.9 amps. these units only help if you have an inductive load on them all the time. try running only the A/c on and check the unit off and unit on you will see a difference.


  8. Hey Pete – you're awesome dude!! You're testing exactly the kind of stuff I'm into and wanting to know about. I'll be eagerly waiting to know what you find out. Let us know… 🙂

  9. Hey Pete. Here's a link for a company with a similiar product that has a vid of some testing that was compared before and after adding in the device and how they did it. Some of it is similiar to your hot water tests vid, and some different.

    Hope that helps and I look forward to what you come up with.
    Thx again for your testing! 🙂

  10. Pete, The box is a capacitor which can interact with inductive loads to affect the current draw. Unfortunately most electric meters on houses do not measure this current draw, but the actual kilowatts. On larger commercial installation the utilities charge for power factor (the amount of excess amps drawn by inductive loads), but not on houses. Should see very little improvement in your bill.

  11. It is irresponsible for a novice to give electrical advice. I am a master electrician, and you have made very dangerous mistakes. Your installation has several serious code violations. most important is the lack of connectors where you removed the knockouts. also the white wire is not a ground, it is a neutral. It is dangerous to mistake it for a ground, and it can only be terminated on the ground bar under very specific circumstances, and many times cannot. leave it to professionals.

  12. Also, and more importantly, you need to use a two pole breaker instead of individual single pole breakers. otherwise you might put both ungrounded (hot) conductors on the same phase thereby making the two wires to work as if they where spliced together giving a voltage to the box of 120v instead of the 220v, or 208v, (depending on your service). You should remove this video IMHO. It is dangerously incorrect.

  13. the best way to test this is really just to leave it alone, and compare your bills.. i have one in my house after doing a ton of research. basically what you'll find is the people that claim it doesnt work- give reasons why it wont, but dont own one, but the people that actually have one installed have the paperwork to show that they experiece a drop in their bills. homes with

  14. just to add- from what ive read, people with older appliances and hvac systems seem to show the best gains from these, as the newer, high efficiency appliances and hvac motors already have capicators installed in them, which is one reason they are more efficient to begin with. i did my install myself also – electricians are charging obscene prices to install these from what i hear. i was told though that they should occupy the first breakers on either the left or right side of the panel.

  15. Unfortunately, the power company charges you for real power, calculated a V*I*F. F = power factor = cos of phase angle between voltage and current. Therefore if you change the phase angle of an inductive load back towards unity with a power factor device, the real power will not change and neither will your bill.

  16. To test this, just turn off all other loads in your house and connect only a large reactive load. Then record the power (or kilo-watt-hours over a time interval if your meter can't read the power). You can do all of this without dangerous breaker-box work if you purchase a $30 energy meter, like the 'Kill-A-Watt EZ', from the hardware store.

  17. NOT specific when people use the words -" this or that." Needs close up zoom in to see more of what he s talking about….there are those who never did it and do NOT want to burn up the control box. Good ideas but NOT all detailed for a NON expert.

  18. Not sure when you installed this device, however, you installed it improperly. This was not an original KVAR Energy Controller Manufactured By the KVAR Corp. You should contact KVAR Energy Savings, Inc. to determine why your installation was unsuccessful.

  19. only would work that way if pete wants to spend the next 2-3 months doing exactly what he did for the last 2-3 months to the letter, otherwise he simply may not have used as much energy during 1 test opposed to the other, 1 hr long draw test will be conclusive.

  20. best way to test is with a 10 lbs hammer . you can not get something for nothing they did not even put an output on this dam thing a fool and his money . what made you think some thing like this would work if you wont something for nothing try the welfare office . 

  21. I bought 1 6 years ago.  To test turn on everything in your house.  Check your amp pull and clock the amount of time it takes to make a full rotation.  Put the device on and do it again.  Mine slowed the meter down and cut the amp pull by 15%.  Been using it ever since.  It will save up money

  22. I love all the people who say it's a scam, or "you can't get something for nothing".  Obviously they do not understand A/C electricity.  When motors run, there is induction.  When that leads current the sign wave is "out of phase".  If you correct this with capacitance, then yes, you can in fact save power.  The best way to accomplish this is with a lot of math.  You need to calculate the KVAR's on each appliance in your home that has a motor (not tools unless you use them more than on occasion) then build the unit to match the average.  

    If you really want to understand it, google "ELI the ICEman".  If you've bought one of these and it didn't  help, or helped very little, it's because it was a mismatch, or because you don't have that many motors running to make a difference.  It won't do a thing for resistive loads, like lights, the stove or the electric water heater.  .  

  23. Ok as a meter tech use the device that counts the utility uses the meter to bill so we will also use the meter one disk rotation = 7.2 kWh or killo watt hour so the utility bills by the hour,,,your meter could be another number it will say it like 10.0kwh so this means the meter counts @ 10 kWh per one disk turn so here is the test, turn off breakers to KVA go out side and count in seconds one disk turn then turn on the KVA and repeat so what are we doing, were doing a test comparison in time if the disk takes 10 seconds to do one revolution and 5 sec revolutions with the KVA then thats 50% differents so  say it takes 69 seconds with out KVA and 55 seconds with KVA then 69/55 =1.25 so this said turn off all appliances a fridge will turn off and on
    in testing use the AC Unit 3 ton uses 2.800-3200 watts count the disk rev then turn on the KVA do the same  hope this helps..Andre'

  24. This corrects ac power factor, you would need a oscilloscope to check the wave forms for the current x time, and voltage x time, to be able to see what the before and after are. How it works is a unbalanced load makes a meter spin faster, and this is a method to balance, but also could unbalance in the reverse direction.. simple power factor correction..

  25. Hi, You Are using two sigle Breakers, That is the wrong way to hook this up, First you need a 220 Breaker, Now you will need to put the 220 breaker atop the other breakers ,/ closest to your incoming power leads, Now what the 220 breaker does is Work both sides of the breaker box instead of one side like your hooked up !! I Have one of these hooked up on my home and they do work and save money and they are also a Surge protector ! well at least mine claims to be !! hope this helps anyone trying to hook up the power saver..

  26. Like bobbyv125 said you need it at the top of your breaker box. If you want to see if it really is working. Hook it up correctly, then turn off all but one of your breakers. then check the amp draw. make sure there is some type of motor is running. then turn the two brekers for the power saver on, then recheck the amp draw to see if it is working. I ran my table saw that had a 1hp motor, I let it run for 3 minutes and cut a board while I checked it. There was not any different in the amp draw while it was hooked up. But when it was not hooked up the amp draw went up. So myself I would say it works.

  27. I'm charged in Watts (True Power) not Volt Amps (Apparent Power) so  unless my power company starts sending me a power factor correction bill, I wouldn't think that this would save me any money.  I would definitely be interested in seeing your 5 year savings to date.  It would clean up the power and your sensitive electronics would probably last longer though.

  28. mixcatcom , I been watching your videos for years and am subscribed . I have been waiting on to finish this review. Does the power saver work, does it save electricity ? It's been a long time, what do you think ? Have you discovered any energy saving devices like that that work over the years of testing ?

  29. The power saver needs to be installed at he beginning of the panel on a double pole break savings, not on two separate breakers to get the proper savings, not on the bottom of the panel .

  30. Sorry computer messed up. Proper installation if to use a double pole breaker at the top of the panel for greatest savings, not two separate breakers at the bottom of the panel.

  31. Install a switch inline with the saver, observe meter during normal use with switch off, and time you kw usage for say, 30 seconds.  Then with presumably the same load on your house (don't change any loads), turn switch on and repeat the 30 second kw count at our meter.

  32. These devices are not worth buying. It will change your power factor, but it will not change your hydro bill. For a residential service, the hydro company charges you the same, no matter what your power factor is. These devices will lower your current (or amps), but your hydro company does not charge you per amp, they charge you for KW's used. The device is a total waste of money for a residential customer, and a SCAM.

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